Bags & Accessories Intermediate 18-25 Hours DK yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Terracotta Marigold Drawstring Pouch Crochet Pattern

Crochet the Terracotta Marigold Drawstring Pouch with African Flower motifs, a lattice hdc body, ruffled collar, and twisted cord tassels.

Jump to the rounds

Before you sit down

Start at the base and work continuous rounds with even increases until the bottom circle reaches the intended diameter.

Continue upward through the bag body sides, keeping every half double crochet worked in the back loop only for the lattice texture.

Work the drawstring eyelet round, spacing the holes evenly so the cord will pull smoothly later.

Add the upper band round to stabilize the top edge just above the eyelets.

Finish the opening with the ruffled collar rounds for a soft, decorative edge.

Separately crochet all fourteen African Flower motifs, working each through its color changes and shaping rounds.

Block the motifs, then pin and sew them onto the bag body in a staggered grid pattern.

Make the twisted drawstring cord and cream tassels, then thread the cord through the eyelets to complete the bag.

What this one is

The Terracotta Marigold Drawstring Pouch is a structured bucket-style bag that starts flat at the base and builds upward in continuous rounds until it takes on its signature rounded silhouette. What sets it apart is the dense diagonal lattice texture across the body, created entirely with back loop only half double crochet, paired with fourteen separately made African Flower motifs sewn on in a staggered grid. It's perfect for crocheters who love a bag with real presence, whether for market days, weekend errands, or as a striking handmade gift.

This project leans intermediate to advanced, so you'll want to be confident working in continuous rounds without stitch markers slipping, managing consistent increases at the base, and sewing motifs neatly and evenly onto a finished surface. If granny squares and basic shaping already feel comfortable, you're ready for this. Expect to spend 18 to 25 hours total, split roughly between 6 to 8 hours on the bag body, 8 to 10 hours crocheting all fourteen flower motifs, and 2 to 4 hours on assembly, the drawstring cord, and tassels.

The finished pouch measures about 11 inches wide by 10.5 inches tall, with a 34-inch circumference and a 7.5-inch base diameter, so it's substantial enough to function as a real everyday bag rather than just a decorative piece. The ruffled collar, eyelet drawstring closure, and cream tassels give it a polished, boutique-made finish. This is the kind of project that becomes a conversation piece and makes an unforgettable gift for anyone who appreciates handmade texture and detail.

Variations

This pattern is wonderfully open to color play since the African Flower motifs and lattice body can be worked in almost any combination. Try a moody sage green MC with blush pink CC motifs for a softer, garden-party feel, or go bold with navy and mustard for a richer, autumn-market vibe. For a monochrome look, work the entire bag in one color family using two tonal shades of the same hue so the lattice texture and motifs still read as distinct layers. Yarn-wise, 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK, and Drops Safran all work beautifully, but you could also try We Are Knitters Pima Cotton or Scheepjes Catona held to DK gauge for an even silkier finish, just remember to swatch first since cotton brands vary in thickness. If you want a smaller everyday version, reduce the base rounds by one repeat and reduce the motif count from fourteen to nine or ten, adjusting your grid spacing accordingly, which will also shave a few hours off total time. For a larger tote-style bag, add extra bag body side rounds before the eyelet round to increase the height, and consider extending the strap length if you add handles instead of a drawstring only. Seasonal riffs are fun too: cream and forest green motifs on a deep red body feel festive without being overtly holiday-themed, while all-white motifs on a dusty lavender body feel bridal and soft. You could even swap the twisted cotton rope drawstring for a leather cord for a more boho-luxe finish, or add wooden beads to the tassel ends for extra texture.

I adore how this bag proves that back loop only hdc can create something so architectural — that diagonal lattice grid across the body genuinely looks woven, not crocheted, and watching it emerge round after round never gets old. Sewing on all fourteen African Flower motifs in their staggered grid is such a meditative process, and the moment you place the last one and see the full pattern come together is pure magic. I love that this bag actually holds its shape thanks to the sturdy cotton and dense stitching, so it functions as a real everyday bag, not just a pretty shelf piece. The eyelet round paired with a twisted drawstring cord feels so satisfying to thread through, and those cream tassels at the ends are the little detail that makes it look store-bought. Even the ruffled collar at the top adds unexpected softness against all that structured texture. This is a project that rewards patience with a genuinely wow-worthy result, and every time I carry mine, someone asks where I bought it.

Common mistakes

  • Working hdc stitches through both loops instead of back loop only, which flattens the diagonal lattice texture entirely.Slow down at the start of each round and consciously insert your hook only under the back loop; the texture only appears when this is done consistently throughout the entire body.
  • Losing track of your round marker while working continuous rounds, causing spirals to drift or rounds to merge.Move your stitch marker up into the first stitch of every new round without exception, and consider using a second contrasting marker at the halfway point of the round for extra orientation.
  • Inconsistent increase placement at the base, resulting in a base that ripples, cups, or doesn't lie flat.Count your stitches at the end of every base round and compare against the expected total; if it's off, unravel back to the last correct round rather than trying to fix it mid-round.
  • Sewing the African Flower motifs on unevenly or with visible sewing stitches, disrupting the clean staggered grid look.Pin all fourteen motifs in place first with locking stitch markers before sewing any of them down, stepping back periodically to check spacing and alignment against the whole bag.
  • Making the eyelet holes too tight or unevenly spaced, which makes threading the drawstring cord difficult later.Use a stitch marker to mark each eyelet position in advance so the spacing stays even, and test that your cord slides through smoothly before moving on to the upper band.
  • Choosing a stretchy or fuzzy yarn substitute, causing the bag to lose its structured shape and definition.Stick with a smooth, plied DK weight cotton or cotton-blend as suggested, and always swatch first since a floppy bag can't be fixed after the fact without reworking it in a firmer yarn.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate18-25 Hours4.0 mmDK

Materials

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

  • Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Terracotta and Ecru works beautifully here. This 100% mercerized cotton gives excellent stitch definition for the lattice texture and blocks nicely for flat motifs. It is machine washable and durable.
  • Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Baked Terra and Champagne White is another great option. This smooth 100% cotton is widely available and affordable.
  • Drops Safran in Burnt Orange and Natural gives the bag a polished boutique feel with its slight sheen.
  • A quick note on substitutions: any smooth DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn will work well. Avoid acrylic or high-stretch yarns because the bag will lose its structured shape. Cotton yarns vary significantly in thickness across brands, so please swatch before starting.

Yarn

  • Main Color (MC): Terracotta orange, DK weight (CYCA 3 Light), approximately 550 yards
  • Contrast Color (CC): Cream or natural off-white, DK weight (CYCA 3 Light), approximately 250 yards

Hook

  • US Size G-6 (4.0 mm) for the bag body and motifs

Additional Supplies

  • At least 4 stitch markers
  • Yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing motifs
  • Scissors
  • 2 yards of 6 mm cream twisted cotton rope or macrame cord for the drawstring (you can also make this from yarn)
  • Cardboard strip approximately 4 inches wide for making tassels

keep this to hand

Abbreviations

US crochet terms, as used in this pattern.

  1. chchain: wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook
  2. sl stslip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once
  3. scsingle crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  4. hdchalf double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
  5. dcdouble crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice
  6. st/stsstitch/stitches
  7. spspace
  8. ch-spchain space
  9. bloback loop only: work into only the back loop of the stitch
  10. MRmagic ring: an adjustable loop that closes tightly at the center
  11. MCmain color (terracotta)
  12. CCcontrast color (cream)
  13. pmplace marker
  14. skskip
  15. rndround
  16. RSright side

African Flower Motif

These dimensional flower appliques are worked in rounds using both MC and CC.

  1. Round 1(MC): Make a magic ring. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 11 hdc into the ring, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (12 hdc)
  2. Round 2(MC): Ch 1, work 2 sc in each stitch around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 sc)
  3. Round 3(MC): Ch 1, (sc in next st, ch 3, sk 1 st) 12 times, sl st to first sc to join. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 loops)
  4. Round 4(MC): Sl st into first ch-3 loop, ch 3, work 4 dc into same ch-3 loop, ch 3, sl st into same loop to close petal, (sl st into next ch-3 loop, ch 3, 4 dc into same loop, ch 3, sl st into same loop) 11 times, sl st to beginning. (12 petals)(12)
  5. Round 5(CC): Working behind the petals, insert hook under the skipped sc from Round 2, ch 1, sc in that st, (ch 5, sc in next skipped sc from Round 2) 11 times, ch 5, sl st to first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
  6. Round 6(CC): Into each ch-5 loop work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc), sl st to first sc. (12 petals in CC surrounding the MC petals)
  7. Round 7(CC): Ch 1, working into the back of Round 6, sc in each stitch across the outer scalloped edge, working 3 sc in each outer dc point of every petal to form the ruffled border, sl st to join. Fasten off. (approximately 108 sc total)

If you want the flower centers to look more golden, begin Round 1 with a tan or golden ochre yarn, then switch to MC for Rounds 2 through 4. This is optional and purely decorative.

Section 1: Base

Using MC, make a magic ring.

  1. Round 1Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout base), work 9 hdc into the ring, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (10 hdc)
  2. Round 2Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in each stitch around, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (20 hdc)
  3. Round 3Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (30 hdc)
  4. Round 4Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (40 hdc)
  5. Round 5Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 3 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (50 hdc)
  6. Round 6Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 4 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (60 hdc)
  7. Round 7Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 5 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (70 hdc)
  8. Round 8Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 6 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (80 hdc)
  9. Round 9Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 7 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (90 hdc)
  10. Round 10Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 8 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (100 hdc)
  11. Round 11Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 9 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (110 hdc)
  12. Round 12Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 10 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts) 9 times, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (120 hdc)Checkpoint: Your flat circle should measure approximately 7.5 inches in diameter. If it is smaller, your tension is too tight. If it is larger, consider going down half a hook size.

Section 2: Bag Body Sides

From this point forward, do not join rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move it up as you work. Work all hdc in the back loop only throughout the entire body section.

  1. Round 13through 15: Working in blo, hdc in each stitch around. (120 hdc)
  2. Round 16(shift round): Working in blo, hdc in next 119 sts, shift marker one stitch to the left. (120 hdc)Continue this pattern of working 3 regular rounds followed by 1 shift round all the way through Round 56.
  3. Round 17-20, 21-24, 25-28, 29-32, 33-36, 37-40, 41-44, 45-48, 49-52, 53-56: Working in blo, hdc in each stitch around, shifting on every fourth round (Rounds 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, and 56). (120 hdc each round)Checkpoint: After Round 56, the bag body should measure approximately 8.5 inches from base to current working edge. The diagonal ridges should be clearly visible. Count 120 stitches before continuing.(120)

Section 3: Drawstring Eyelet Round

  1. Round 57(eyelet round, work in both loops): Sl st to join at marker, ch 1, (sc in next 8 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts) 12 times, sl st to first sc to join. (96 sc, 12 ch-2 spaces)
  2. Round 58Ch 1, sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around, sl st to first sc to join. (120 sc)

Checkpoint: You should have 12 evenly spaced eyelet holes around the circumference.

Section 4: Upper Band

  1. Round 59through 62: Working in blo, hdc in each stitch around, do not join. (120 hdc each round)At the end of Round 62, sl st to join.(120)

Section 5: Ruffle Collar

  1. Round 63(increase round, work in both loops): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in each stitch around, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (240 hdc)
  2. Round 64Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to top of ch-2 to join. (240 hdc)
  3. Round 65Ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st) 120 times, ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st to first sc to join. (120 sc, 120 ch-3 loops)
  4. Round 66Sl st into first ch-3 loop, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into each ch-3 loop around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (120 shell stitches)(120)

Checkpoint: The collar should flare outward and ruffle gently, measuring approximately 1.5 inches deep.

Section 6: African Flower Motifs

Work 14 motifs total following the African Flower Motif instructions in the Special Stitches section above.

Motif Placement:

For the front and back panels (4 motifs each, 8 total): Place one motif centered at approximately 3 inches from the base. Place a second motif directly above at approximately 6.5 inches from the base. Offset a third motif to the opposite side at 3 inches from the base, and a fourth directly above at 6.5 inches. This creates a staggered diamond grid.

For the side panels (3 motifs each, 6 total): Place one motif centered at 5 inches from the base. Place one above and slightly left at 7.5 inches. Place one below and slightly right at 2.5 inches.

Pin each motif in place before sewing. Using CC yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch each motif around its outer edge to the bag surface. Take care to sew through only the outer surface so stitches do not show on the interior.

Section 7: Drawstring Cords and Tassels

To make the twisted cord: Cut 8 strands of CC yarn, each 5 yards long. Fold the bundle in half. Secure the loop end to a fixed point. Twist all 16 strands clockwise until the cord begins to kink when relaxed. Fold the twisted length in half and allow it to twist back on itself. Tie a knot at the loose end. Make two cords.

To make the tassels: Wrap CC yarn around a 4-inch cardboard strip 20 times. Slide a strand underneath and tie at the top. Cut the loops at the bottom. Wrap another strand around the bundle about 0.5 inch down from the top, securing tightly. Trim ends to about 3 inches. Make 4 tassels total.

Attach 2 tassels to each cord end. Thread cord 1 through all 12 eyelets, exiting through the same opening. Thread cord 2 starting from the opposite side. When pulled, both cords tighten simultaneously.

Assembly

Step 1

Weave in all ends securely, burying tails through at least 1 inch of stitches.

Step 2

Wet blocking is recommended for cotton yarns. Submerge the finished bag in cool water and gently squeeze out excess moisture. Shape over a rounded form like a bowl or inflated balloon. Smooth the lattice ridges and fluff the motif petals. Allow to dry completely.

Step 3

Care instructions: Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. Lay flat or reshape over a form to dry. Do not tumble dry or bleach. Store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain shape.

Important notes

Note 01

💡 Swatch before you commit — 18 stitches and 20 rows should equal 4 inches in back loop only hdc with a G-6 (4.0mm) hook, and adjusting hook size now saves hours of frustration later.

Note 02

💡 Use at least four stitch markers strategically: one for the round marker, and others to track increase points on the base or eyelet placement so nothing gets missed mid-round.

Note 03

💡 Block your African Flower motifs before sewing them on so each one measures a consistent 3.25 inches across; unblocked motifs can vary in size and throw off your staggered grid.

Note 04

💡 Choose a smooth mercerized cotton like 24/7 Cotton or Drops Safran rather than acrylic, since the structure and drape of this bag depends entirely on a firm, non-stretchy fiber.

Note 05

💡 Pin all fourteen motifs onto the bag body before sewing a single one down, so you can adjust spacing and confirm the staggered pattern looks balanced from every angle first.

Note 06

💡 When making your twisted drawstring cord and tassels, use the 4-inch cardboard strip method for even tassel length, and wrap the cord tightly enough that it won't unwind with regular use.

FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Can I make this bag smaller if I don't want a full 11-inch wide pouch?

Yes, you can reduce the base rounds by one repeat and scale down the number of African Flower motifs accordingly, which will also shorten your total crochet time. Just keep the same gauge so the lattice texture stays proportional.

Do I need to know how to make African Flower motifs before starting this pattern?

Having made granny squares or basic motifs before will help you feel confident, since the African Flower motif involves color changes and shaping across seven rounds. If you're newer to motifs, practice one or two extra before starting the full set of fourteen.

What happens if my cotton yarn is a different thickness than the one recommended?

Since cotton yarns vary significantly in thickness across brands, always swatch first and adjust your hook size until you match the 18 stitch by 20 row gauge over 4 inches. A bag worked too loosely will look floppy, while one worked too tightly can use noticeably more yarn.

Can I substitute the twisted cotton rope with something else for the drawstring?

Absolutely, you can make your own drawstring cord from yarn instead of using purchased rope, or substitute a leather or paracord for a different look. Just make sure whatever you choose is sturdy enough to hold up to repeated pulling through the eyelets.

How long does this project realistically take from start to finish?

Plan for about 18 to 25 hours total, broken down into roughly 6 to 8 hours for the bag body, 8 to 10 hours for all fourteen flower motifs, and 2 to 4 hours for finishing and the cord. Many crocheters spread this across several weeks of evening sessions.