Bags & Totes Intermediate 10-14 hours Worsted yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Sunburst granny square tote bag with bamboo handles

A scrappy sunburst granny square tote with bamboo handles, perfect for stash cotton and about 10 to 14 hours of relaxed stitching.

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

I love the idea of picking this one up after dinner, in that last stretch of evening when the house goes quiet and your hands want something steady to do. This tote is for anyone with a drawer full of leftover cotton and a hankering for a bag that actually earns its keep at the farmers market or the beach. If you've made a granny square before but never squared one off into a real three-dimensional tote, this is a good next step.

Your hands will spend most of their time on small, repeatable motions: magic rings pulled snug, sunburst rounds popping into rays, corners turned with a crisp two-double-crochet shell. Expect to spend somewhere between 10 and 14 hours start to finish, with a good chunk of that going toward arranging your six to eight accent colors before you ever join the white border. It's a project you can dip into over several sittings rather than finish in one go.

Try it another way

Sizing this tote up or down is mostly arithmetic, since each sunburst square blocks to a reliable 4 inches: add a round of squares for a wider or taller bag, or drop a row for something closer to a market basket. For yarn, the pattern already points to Paintbox Cotton Aran, Scheepjes Catona held double, or Lily Sugar'n Cream, so you can match whichever cotton is sitting in your stash as long as it blocks to gauge. Play with color placement, too: instead of a different pair of accents in every square, try repeating just two combinations across the whole bag for a quieter, more graphic look, or lean into the full scrappy spread of navy, teal, sage, mint, sand, cream, and coral for something busier. The white border and 106-stitch rim will unify either approach. If you don't need bamboo handles, swap the D-rings and swivel clasps for a plain crocheted strap, or skip the optional fabric lining if your cotton already holds its shape on its own. This same square also works as a single coaster or joined into a smaller pouch if you only want a handful of motifs.

What makes this one satisfying is the two-stage build: first you work each sunburst square from a magic ring, watching sixteen stitches bloom into thirty-two as the rays appear in round two, then you square off that circle with crisp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) corners in white. Every motif gets its own pair of accent colors, so no two squares look quite alike, yet the shared white border pulls the whole bag into one cohesive piece. Beyond the squares, you get real bag-making skill: attaching bamboo handles, setting D-rings and gold swivel clasps, and single-crocheting a firm four-round rim around a 106-stitch opening so the tote holds its shape instead of slouching.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate10-14 hours4.0 mmWorsted

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

Yarn

  • Main colour (white): approximately 250 grams or 470 yards of worsted weight cotton

Accent colours

  • 6 to 8 shades, approximately 30 grams each

Hook

  • 4.0 mm (US G/6)

Hardware

  • 1 pair of bamboo handles, approximately 5 inches (13 cm)
  • 4 gold swivel clasps
  • 4 D-rings

Notions

  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Optional fabric lining

Yarn Suggestions

  • Any worsted or aran weight (#4) cotton that blocks to gauge will work beautifully. Good options include Paintbox Cotton Aran, Scheepjes Catona held double, or Lily Sugar’n Cream for a sturdy budget-friendly bag.

Notions

Tapestry needle Stitch markers Optional fabric lining Yarn Suggestions:

Any worsted or aran weight (#4) cotton that blocks to gauge will work beautifully. Good options include Paintbox Cotton Aran, Scheepjes Catona held double, or Lily Sugar’n Cream for a sturdy budget-friendly bag.

Gauge

One finished sunburst square should measure 4 inches (10 cm) across after blocking. If your square is larger, try dropping down a hook size. If it’s smaller, size up. Hitting that 4 inch measurement matters more than matching a specific stitch count.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions This pattern is written in US crochet terms. UK equivalents are noted in parentheses. ch – chain: wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook

sl st – slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion

sc – single crochet (UK: dc): insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

hdc – half double crochet (UK: htr): yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops

dc – double crochet (UK: tr): yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops st(s) – stitch(es) sp – space beg – beginning rep – repeat sk – skip

Special Stitches

Corner group: Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all into the same stitch or space. This creates the corner increase that shapes your square.

Magic ring: An adjustable loop used for Round 1. Make the ring, work your stitches into it, then pull the tail tight to close the center hole completely.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

1. The beginning chain 3 counts as the first double crochet (dc) throughout the pattern unless stated otherwise.

2. Join each round with a slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the beginning chain 3.

3. Change colour in the final yarn over of the last stitch before a new round. This creates clean colour lines.

4. Weave in ends as you go. Block each square before joining for the crisp white lattice effect shown in the photos.

The Sunburst Square

Make 27 squares total. Rounds 1 and 2 form the sunburst center. Rounds 3 and 4 square it off with white.

Use Colour A for the center, Colour B for the sunburst ring, and white for the squaring and border rounds.

  1. Round 1Colour A Make a magic ring. Chain 3 (this counts as your first dc). Work 15 dc into the ring. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 with a slip stitch. Pull the ring closed tightly.Stitch count: 16 dc
  2. Round 2Colour B Join Colour B in any stitch. Chain 3, dc in the same stitch, then work 2 dc in each stitch around. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.Stitch count: 32 dc

Tip: Round 2 is where the "rays" of your sunburst appear. Keep your tension even so the sunburst sits flat. If your circle cups or buckles, give it a gentle steam before moving to Round 3.

You now have a flat two-colour circle. The next rounds will square it off.

  1. Round 3White Join white in any stitch. Chain 3, dc in the next 2 stitches. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next stitch for your corner, dc in the next 7 stitches. Repeat from * twice more. Work the 4th corner in the next stitch, dc in the next 4 stitches. Join.Stitch count: 44 dc and 4 corner spaces
  2. Round 4White Chain 3, dc in each dc to the first corner. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner ch-2 space, dc in each dc to the next corner. Repeat around. Join and fasten off.Stitch count: 60 dc and 4 corner spaces Square Check

Each finished side should have 15 dc counted from corner space to corner space, including the corner dc. All four sides should match, which allows squares to join neatly in any direction.

Blocking Your Squares

Pin each square to 4 inches (10 cm), spritz with water, and let dry completely. This single step makes the difference between a wobbly bag and the clean grid you see in the photos. Don’t skip it.

Colour Play and Square Count

The look of this tote is happily scrappy. Pick two different colours for Rounds 1 and 2 of each square, keep the white constant for Rounds 3 and 4, and let combinations repeat at random.

The Ocean Palette Deep Navy Sea Teal Soft Sage Pale Mint Warm Sand Cream Coral Pop How Many Squares for Each Panel Panel Squares

Front panel 9 squares (3 × 3)

Back panel 9 squares (3 × 3)

Two sides 6 squares total (1 × 3 each)

Base 3 squares (3 × 1)

Total 27 squares

Colour tip: Use coral sparingly. Just three or four squares with coral will let it read as an accent rather than a theme. Navy works well as the most repeated centre colour to anchor the spread.

Building the Panels

Lay your squares out before joining and balance the colours by eye. Move things around until you’re happy with the distribution.

Joining Squares

1. Place two squares right sides together. If you prefer a visible ridge on the outside (as shown in the photos), place them wrong sides together instead.

2. With white yarn, single crochet (sc) through both back loops along one side. Work 1 sc per stitch and 1 sc into each corner ch-2 space.

Stitch count per seam: 17 sc

3. Join all rows of a panel first, then join the rows together the same way to complete the 3×3 grid.

4. Make 2 large panels (front and back), 2 side strips, and 1 base strip.

Joining the Bag The base strip and side strips give the tote its boxy, structured shape.

1. Single crochet the base strip (3 squares) to the bottom edge of the front panel.

Stitch count: 53 sc 2. Single crochet the opposite long edge of the base to the bottom of the back panel.

Stitch count: 53 sc

3. Single crochet a side strip down one short edge of the front, across the end of the base, and up the back. Repeat on the other side.

Stitch count: 53 sc per side 4. You now have an open box. Turn right side out and ease the corners into shape.

Optional Lining

For a tote that holds its shape beautifully and hides your essentials, add a fabric lining. Cut fabric measuring 12 × 13 inches plus a 4 inch gusset. Add ½ inch seam allowance on all sides. Sew the lining, then hand-stitch it inside the top edge of the bag before adding the border.

Top Border and Handles Top Border

Part 4

  1. Round 1White Join white at a top back corner. Single crochet evenly around the entire top opening, keeping a steady 1 sc per stitch. Join.Stitch count: 106 sc
  2. Round 2through 5: Chain 1, sc in each stitch around, join. Repeat for four rounds total to build a firm, clean rim.Stitch count: 106 sc each round Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Handles

Step 1: Make 4 short white tabs. Chain 8, sc back along the chain, then work sc in rows until approximately 1.5 inches long.

Stitch count: 7 sc per row

Step 2: Thread each tab through a gold D-ring, fold in half, and sew securely to the inside of the top rim. Position two tabs spaced for each handle.

Step 3: Clip the bamboo handle’s swivel clasps onto the D-rings. Wrap the handle bases with white yarn for the polished finished look shown in the photos.

Handle Placement

Position tabs about 2.5 inches (6 cm) in from each top corner. This placement ensures the handles hang straight and the bag sits square when carried.

Care Instructions 1. Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Cotton can lose shape in hot water.

2. Don’t wring. Press water out gently and reshape flat to dry.

3. Dry away from direct heat and sunlight to keep colours bright.

4. Remove bamboo handles before washing and dry them separately.

Make It Your Size

Bigger beach bag: Work front and back at 4×4 squares and lengthen the base and sides to 4 squares long.

Mini grab bag: Drop to 2×3 panels with a 2-square base for an evening clutch size.

Taller tote: Add a 5th and 6th sc round to the top border, or join an extra row of squares to each panel.

Every square added in any direction changes the size by 4 inches (10 cm). Count squares, multiply by four, and you have your finished measurement in inches. Simple math for endless customization.

Tips for Success

Block before joining. I know I’ve said it already, but this really is the key to a professional looking finished bag. Blocked squares join evenly and create that satisfying grid pattern.

Use stitch markers. Mark your corners as you work Round 3 and Round 4. It helps you stay on track, especially when you’re making 27 squares.

Don’t stress about colour placement. The beauty of this scrappy design is that it looks intentional no matter how you arrange things. Trust your eye.

Weave ends as you go. With 27 squares and multiple colour changes, you’ll have a lot of ends. Weaving them in as you finish each square keeps the job manageable.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I hope you love making your Ocean Wave Bamboo Tote as much as I loved designing it. The combination of those cheerful sunburst motifs and the warm bamboo handles creates something truly special.

If you make this tote, I would absolutely love to see it. Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start, and please leave a comment below to share your finished bag. Your photos make my day!

Putting it together

Step 1

Optional Lining: For a tote that holds its shape beautifully and hides your essentials, add a fabric lining. Cut fabric measuring 12 × 13 inches plus a 4 inch gusset. Add ½ inch seam allowance on all sides. Sew the lining, then hand-stitch it inside the top edge of the bag before adding the border.

Marlene's notes

Note 01

Keep your 4.0 mm hook and check tension often; Round 2 is where the sunburst's rays show up, and uneven tension here makes the square cup or buckle.

Note 02

Use stitch markers on your corner stitches once you start squaring off each motif, since the (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) corners are easy to lose track of in a stack of otherwise identical rounds.

Before you sit down

  • Lay out your 6 to 8 accent shades next to the white before you start so you know which two colors are pairing in each square.
  • Make one test square and block it; it should measure 4 inches across, and your hook size is the thing to adjust if it doesn't.
  • Read through Round 1 of the sunburst (the magic ring worked to 16 dc) and Round 2, the ray-forming increase round, before you pick up your hook.
  • Set aside stitch markers for tracking corners once you move from the circular rounds into squaring off each motif.

How the hours go

Sunburst squares
about 4 to 6 hours because each motif needs a magic ring, a 32-stitch increase round, and several squaring rounds before the white border even starts
Joining and border (Part 4)
about 2 to 3 hours because the four rim rounds each work across a full 106 single crochet stitches
Handles and notions finishing
about 3 to 5 hours because attaching the bamboo handles, D-rings, and swivel clasps plus weaving in ends across every square takes real sitting time

Looking after it

  • Hand wash this one in cool water with a gentle soap, since cotton holds its shape best without rough agitation or a hot wash cycle.
  • Lay the tote flat to dry and reshape the top rim and corners by hand while damp; once dry, store it stuffed with tissue paper or a spare towel so the bamboo handles and corners keep their form.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Can I use a different yarn than the suggested cotton?

Yes, any worsted or aran weight (#4) cotton that blocks to gauge will work, including Paintbox Cotton Aran, Scheepjes Catona held double, or Lily Sugar'n Cream. Just check that your finished square still measures 4 inches after blocking.

My squares aren't coming out flat, what's wrong?

This usually happens in Round 2, where the rays form. Keep your tension even as you work the increases, and give a cupped or buckled square a gentle steam before moving on to the squaring rounds.

Do I need a fabric lining?

No, it's optional. The pattern suggests cutting fabric to 12 by 13 inches plus a 4 inch gusset with a ½ inch seam allowance if you want one, but the bag stands on its own without it.

How many different colors do I actually need?

The materials list calls for the white main color plus 6 to 8 accent shades at about 30 grams each, which is enough to give every square its own two-color center.

What's the finished size of the bag?

It measures about 12 inches wide by 13 inches tall by 4 inches deep, with the bamboo handles adding another 5 inches of height.

How long does this project realistically take?

Most crocheters report 10 to 14 hours total, and a good share of that time goes into arranging color combinations for the squares rather than the stitching itself.