Intermediate 4-6 hours Worsted yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

A plush amigurumi teddy bear you will want to cuddle

A soft amigurumi teddy bear in plush yarn, about 4-6 hours to make, good for a patient beginner or gift-maker.

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

This bear is the kind of thing you make on an evening when you'd rather have soft plush yarn moving through your fingers than the television on. It suits someone who already knows their way around a magic ring and a basic increase, and who wants a toy that feels finished, not just cute. Make it for a child who needs something to hold, or for yourself, because a good bear is never really outgrown.

Your hands spend most of the time doing three things: working single crochet in a continuous spiral, increasing steadily so a flat circle grows into a rounded limb or head, and stuffing firmly as each piece closes. None of it is difficult, but there's enough shaping and enough pieces that you should plan for a few sittings rather than one. All told, this comes together in roughly four to six hours from first stitch to sewn-on nose.

Try it another way

The easiest change is scale: work the same increase sequence - 6, then 12, then 18 stitches - with a finer yarn and a smaller hook and you'll land well under the 28 cm finished height, closer to a pocket-sized keeper. Go the other way with a chunkier plush yarn and a 4 mm hook throughout, rather than the 3.5 mm, and the bear grows softer and rounder without changing a single round count. Color placement is an easy way to make each bear feel different: keep the body and head in one shade and work just the arms, or just the tips of the ears, in a contrast color for a paw-pad look. If this bear is meant for a very young child rather than a shelf, skip the 12 mm eyes and 20 mm beak altogether and embroider the face instead with yarn, which removes any small hard parts. And if you'd rather make a smaller companion piece, the same 6-12-18 increase pattern used for the limbs works nicely on its own as a tiny stuffed ball ornament or a keychain base, just stop before the shaping calls for more length.

What makes this bear satisfying is watching a flat six-stitch magic ring turn into something with real volume in just a couple of rounds - six to twelve to eighteen stitches, and suddenly you're holding a leg instead of a disc. The continuous spiral keeps your hands moving without the interruption of turning or joining, so you settle into a rhythm fast. Working with plush yarn instead of a standard worsted also changes the feel of every stitch: it's forgiving, it hides small tension slips, and it gives the finished bear that soft, huggable surface that a smoother yarn never quite manages. Setting the 12 mm eyes and 20 mm nose at the end is the moment the whole thing stops being a pile of stuffed shapes and becomes a face.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate4-6 hours12 mmWorsted

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

  • Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn, YarnArt Dolce 1 skein
  • Filling (holofiber)
  • Eyes 12 mm
  • Beak 20 mm
  • Hook n° 3.5 mm or 4 mm
  • Needle for sewing pieces and tightening
  • Thread for the Tightening
  • The height of the finished toy is approximately 28 cm.

Legs

  1. Round 1ch 7
  2. Round 2from 2nd loop from hook 5 sc, 3 sc in last loop, turn and crochet 2nd side 4 sc, inc (14)
  3. Round 3inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (20)
  4. Round 4sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)
  5. Round 52 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc (28)
  6. Rounds 6–728 sc (2 rnds)(28)
  7. Round 85 sc, (sc, dim)*6, 5 sc (22)
  8. Round 95 sc, 6 dim, 5 sc (16)
  9. Rounds 10–1716 sc (8 rnds)(16)
  10. Round 188 dec

Arms

  1. Round 16 ms en MR
  2. Round 2Augm *6 (12)
  3. Round 3(1 ms, augm)*6 (18)
  4. Rounds 4–618 ms (3 rnds)(18)
  5. Round 75 ms, 4 dim, 5 ms (14)
  6. Rounds 8–1514 ms (8 rnds)(14)
  7. Round 167 dim

Marlene's notes

Note 01

Plush yarn is thicker and softer than standard worsted, so test both the 3.5 mm and 4 mm hook on your swatch and pick whichever gives you a tight, gap-free fabric that will hold holofiber filling without it peeking through.

Note 02

Because every part is worked in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds, a stitch marker on the first stitch of each round is the only reliable way to know where you are.

Note 03

Stuff firmly and evenly as you go, especially through the increase rounds, since holofiber settles better when it's packed in stages rather than crammed in all at once at the end.

Before you sit down

  • Confirm you have enough of your Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce plush yarn on hand - one skein is meant to cover the whole bear, so check your dye lot before you begin.
  • Have a stitch marker ready, since every part is worked in continuous spiral rounds with no turning chain to mark your place for you.
  • Work a small swatch first to see how your chosen hook, either 3.5 mm or 4 mm, sits with the plush yarn's thickness and drape.
  • Read through the first increase sequence - 6 stitches, then 12, then 18 - before you pick up your hook, so the shaping feels familiar rather than surprising mid-round.

How the hours go

Head and body
about 90 minutes because these pieces carry the most rounds and the steepest increases, and need careful stuffing before closing
Arms and legs
about 60-90 minutes because each limb repeats the same 6, 12, 18 stitch increase sequence, which goes quickly once you find the rhythm
Assembly and finishing
about 60 minutes because sewing pieces together, tightening with your needle and thread, and setting the 12 mm eyes and 20 mm beak all take a slower, more deliberate pace

Looking after it

  • Hand wash the finished bear in cool water with a gentle detergent, since plush yarns like these hold their softness better without a washing machine's agitation; press out water rather than wringing.
  • Lay the bear flat to dry, reshaping the ears and limbs with your fingers while still damp, and once dry, store it stuffed and upright rather than squashed in a bag so the shaping from your increase rounds doesn't flatten out.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Can I use a different plush yarn than Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce?

Yes, any plush yarn of similar weight will work as long as your gauge with the 3.5 mm or 4 mm hook gives a tight enough fabric to hold the holofiber filling. Just check your swatch first, since plush yarns vary in thickness between brands.

Do I need stitch markers for every round?

You need one marker per part, moved up as you go, since the whole bear is worked in continuous spiral rounds rather than joined rounds. Losing track of your starting stitch is the easiest way to end up with a lopsided increase.

Is one skein really enough for the whole bear?

The materials list calls for one skein of Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce, which is meant to cover the entire toy including head, body, arms, and legs. If your tension runs looser than average, keep a little extra on hand just in case.

What size safety eyes and nose should I buy?

This pattern calls for 12 mm eyes and a 20 mm beak, or nose piece, which suit the finished 28 cm height well. Buying the wrong size is the most common fitting mistake, so measure against the pattern's numbers before ordering.

How firmly should I stuff the limbs versus the body?

Stuff the limbs a little firmer than the body so they hold their shape and don't flop, since they're narrower and take less holofiber overall. The body can be slightly softer for a huggable feel without losing its rounded shape.

Is this a good first amigurumi project?

It's better suited to someone who's already comfortable with magic rings and basic increases, since the bear has several pieces to shape and sew together. If you're brand new to amigurumi, practicing the 6-12-18 increase sequence on its own first will make this bear much smoother going.