Garments Intermediate 18-24 hours DK yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Lavender lace high-low party dress for toddlers

An intermediate-advanced crochet dress with collar, fan lace tiers and high-low hem. About 18-24 hours, sizes 2T-4T.

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

This one's for the party on the calendar that matters to somebody small -- a first birthday, a family photo, a day she gets to twirl. You're making it for a toddler who's going to spin in circles just to watch the back hem swing lower than the front, and for the grown-up who wants her dressed like it's a real occasion. It comes in 2T and 3T, with a 4T noted throughout, so you can size up as she grows.

Your hands start at the collar, work it flat row by row, then move into the bodice in joined rounds before dropping down into three stacked tiers of fan lace. Between the hdc bodice, the dc fan shells, and the back-only rows that build the high-low drop, you're looking at about 18 to 24 hours of actual stitching, plus extra time set aside for blocking and threading that satin ribbon through the waist.

Try it another way

The sizing built into this pattern already gives you room to play -- the 2T, 3T, and 4T numbers run throughout, so sizing up just means following the second or third figure in each parenthetical. If you want a different look, swap the Misty Lilac for any of the three suggested yarns; the Cascade Ultra Pima's sheen will make the fan shells on Tiers 1 through 3 catch more light, while the Drops Safran keeps things more matte and everyday. You could also work the whole dress in a pale cream or blush cotton and save the lavender for the satin ribbon waistband and the collar bow clip, so the color shows up only in the finishing touches. For a lower-key version, consider skipping the Tier 3 back-only extension rows and working all three tiers as full rounds instead, which trades the dramatic high-low hem for a simpler, even hemline -- just know you'll lose that designer-silhouette effect that makes this dress special. Whatever you change, keep the hook sizes as written: the E-4 for structure up top and the F-5 for drape in the skirt is what makes the fan lace behave.

There's real satisfaction in a dress that teaches you something new in every section. You start with a flat collar worked in rows with back-loop-only increases for its curve, then transition into joined hdc rounds for the bodice, and finally land in fan shells -- five dc worked into a single center stitch, over and over, until the tiers ripple like a fan held open. The high-low hem is the real payoff: those back-only rows on Skirt Tier 3, worked flat while the front rounds stay shorter, build a shape you'd expect to see on a designer label, not something you made yourself with a hook and cotton yarn. Watching the three tiers stack and cascade once they're off the hook is the moment this pattern earns its 'advanced' label.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate18-24 hours3.5 mmDK

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

  • Option 1: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. 100 percent cotton, 137 yards / 125 meters per 50 g ball. Color: Misty Lilac. Excellent stitch definition and smooth finish ideal for lace work. You will need approximately 5 (5, 6) balls.
  • Option 2: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima. 100 percent Pima cotton, 220 yards / 201 meters per 100 g skein. Superior sheen and drape. You will need approximately 3 (4, 4) skeins.
  • Option 3: Drops Safran. 100 percent Egyptian cotton, 175 yards / 160 meters per 50 g ball. Affordable and widely available with consistent dye lots. You will need approximately 4 (4, 5) balls.

Substitution note

  • Choose any DK weight or light DK weight yarn in 100 percent cotton or at least 50 percent cotton blend. Avoid yarns with significant halo like mohair blends as they will obscure the lace pattern. Always swatch to confirm gauge before beginning.

Yarn

  • Light weight yarn (weight category 3 / DK weight), 100 percent mercerized cotton or cotton blend for optimal drape and stitch definition

Amount

  • 600 (680, 760) yards / 549 (622, 695) meters total in one color

Hooks

  • US size E-4 / 3.5 mm for bodice and collar
  • US size F-5 / 3.75 mm for skirt tiers (the larger hook helps the lace panels drape beautifully)

Notions

  • Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • Yarn needle for weaving ends
  • 2 small snaps or buttons (3/8 in / 10 mm) for back closure
  • 1.5 yards / 1.4 meters of satin ribbon, 3/8 in / 10 mm wide, in matching lavender
  • Small satin bow on clip or 12 in / 30 cm of narrow ribbon for collar embellishment
  • Rust-proof pins for blocking
  • Blocking board or clean towels

Collar

Using E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, ch 56 (60, 64).

Foundation row (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (55, 59, 63 sc)

  1. Round 1(RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat this 9-st sequence 4 (4, 5) more times adjusting to fill, ending with sc in last st. Turn. (55, 59, 63 sts)

The collar is a simple curved strip that will be attached to the neckline later. Rows 1 through 5 shape its slight curve by adding small increases on the outer edge.

  1. Round 2Ch 1, working in blo, sc in each st across, working 2 sc in the 4th st from each end to create gentle curve. Turn. (57, 61, 65 sts)
  2. Round 3Ch 1, sc across, do not increase. Turn. (57, 61, 65 sts)
  3. Round 4Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (57, 61, 65 sts)
  4. Round 5Outer edge, RS facing Ch 1, work scallop edge across as follows: sl st in first st, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sl st in next st. Repeat across to end. Fasten off. Leave long tail for seaming.Inner edge of collar (straight foundation chain edge): With RS facing, join yarn at right end of foundation edge, work sc picot border as follows: sc in first ch, ch 3, sl st into first ch of ch-3, sc in next ch. Repeat across. Fasten off.

Set collar aside. It will be attached after the neckline of the bodice is established.

Bodice Neckline Setup

Using E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, ch 76 (82, 88). Join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

This foundation ring represents the top of the bodice including neckline edge. The collar will be sewn to the outside of this edge when complete. The chain count divides into 4 sections: front (28, 30, 32), right side (6, 7, 8), back (28, 30, 32), left side (6, 7, 8) for underarms.

  1. Round 1Ch 2 (does not count as st), hdc in each ch around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (76, 82, 88 hdc)Place markers as follows: pm in st 1 (center back left), pm in st 28 (29, 30) for right back-to-front underarm, pm in st 34 (36, 38) for left front-to-back underarm.
  2. Round 2Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (76, 82, 88 hdc)
  3. Round 3through 5: Rep Rnd 2 three times. (76, 82, 88 hdc each round) Now begin raglan-style yoke shaping to separate body and sleeves. The underarm stitches are placed on hold and new stitches are chained to bridge the underarms.
  4. Round 6Armhole separation round Ch 2, hdc in first 28 (30, 32) sts (front panel), ch 5 (6, 7) to bridge right underarm, skip 6 (7, 8) sts, hdc in next 28 (30, 32) sts (back panel), ch 5 (6, 7) to bridge left underarm, skip 6 (7, 8) sts. Join.Stitch count: 28 + 5 + 28 + 5 = 66 for 2T ; 30 + 6 + 30 + 6 = 72 for 3T ; 32 + 7 + 32 + 7 = 78 for 4T
  5. Round 7Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch around. Join. (66, 72, 78 hdc) Verification: 66 / 6 = 11 fan repeats, 72 / 6 = 12 repeats, 78 / 6 = 13 repeats. All divide cleanly for fan lace.

Skirt Tier 3

Tier 3 is the longest tier and creates the high-low silhouette. On the back, Tier 3 extends 4 extra fan rows compared to the front.

Rnd A: Join yarn to sc between first two shells of Tier 2 Fan Lace Round 1. Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sc in next sc-between-shell. Repeat around all 20 (24, 26) positions. Join. (20, 24, 26 ch-3 sps)

Rnd B: Ch 3, 5 dc into first ch-3 sp, 6 dc into each remaining ch-3 sp around. Join. (120, 144, 156 dc)

Tier 3 all-around rounds (Rnds 1 through 4): Work fan lace rounds 1 and 2 alternately for 4 full rounds around. (120, 144, 156 sts per round)

Tier 3 back-only rounds (back extension, Rnds 5 through 8): Turn work so WS faces up. Work fan lace back and forth in rows on the back 60 (72, 78) sts only, turning at each side seam marker.

  1. Round 5Back, RS Join at right side seam marker. Ch 1, sc in same st, work fan lace repeat across back sts to left side seam marker. Turn. (back sts only: 60, 72, 78 sts)
  2. Round 6Back, WS Ch 3, 2 dc in same st (half shell at turn edge), work fan lace across. Turn.
  3. Round 7Back, RS Ch 1, sc at edge, work fan lace across. Turn.
  4. Round 8Back, WS Repeat Row 6. Turn. Scallop edging on FRONT hem: With RS facing, work scallop edging along the front fan-lace row 4 edge (the lower front edge): sl st in first st, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sl st in next. Repeat across front only. Fasten off.Scallop edging on BACK hem: After completing back rows 5 through 8, work scallop edging along the bottom edge of row 8 across the back. Fasten off.Side seam edges: Work sc edging along each side edge of the back extension rows to neaten. Fasten off.

Final Checkpoint: Front length from shoulder to front hem should be approximately 16 in / 41 cm for 2T (17 in / 43 cm for 3T, 18 in / 46 cm for 4T). Back length from shoulder to back hem should be approximately 20 in / 51 cm for 2T (21 in / 53 cm for 3T, 22 in / 56 cm for 4T).

Bodice Body

Continue working in joined rounds with E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.

  1. Round 8through 11: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (66, 72, 78 hdc each round)
  2. Round 12(waist shaping, 2T only): Ch 2, (hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog) 6 times. Join. (60 hdc for 2T; 72, 78 hdc for 3T and 4T remain unchanged)

The waist shaping produces a gentle inward curve. For 3T and 4T the waist is not decreased as the proportions remain flattering without.

  1. Round 13and 14 (2T only): Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (60, 72, 78 hdc)
  2. Round 15Ribbon channel round, all sizes With blo only, ch 2, hdc through blo of each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (60, 72, 78 hdc)

This completes the bodice.

Checkpoint: After Rnd 15, the bodice should measure approximately 6 in / 15 cm tall for 2T, 6.5 in / 16.5 cm for 3T, and 7 in / 18 cm for 4T from the top of the neckline to the ribbon channel row.

Do not fasten off. Proceed to Tier 1 skirt.

Skirt Tier 1

Switch to F-5 / 3.75 mm hook.

The skirt begins by picking up stitches into the front loops left exposed in Rnd 15. These front loops face toward you when the dress is right side out.

  1. Round 1Setup round: With RS facing, insert hook into any exposed front loop from Rnd 15, join yarn, ch 1, sc into same loop, sc into each remaining exposed front loop around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60, 72, 78 sc)(78)
  2. Round 2Increase round (Tier 1 base): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (120, 144, 156 dc)(156)

Verification: 120 / 6 = 20 fan repeats; 144 / 6 = 24 fan repeats; 156 / 6 = 26 fan repeats. All divisible.

  1. Round 3Fan lace round 1 (Tier 1, Rnd 1): Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, 5-dc shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat (sk 2, 5-dc shell in next, sk 2, sc in next) around. Join with sl st to first sc. (20, 24, 26 shells + 20, 24, 26 sc)(26)
  2. Round 4Fan lace round 2 (Tier 1, Rnd 2): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st (top of first sc from prev rnd), sk 2 dc, sc in next dc (3rd dc of shell, the center), sk 2 dc, 5-dc shell in next sc. Repeat across. Join. (20, 24, 26 shells shifted by half a repeat)This alternating round staggers the shells to create the interlocking fan lace texture visible in the skirt.(2)
  3. Round 5Fan lace round 3 (Tier 1, Rnd 3): Ch 1, sc into top of ch-3 from previous round, sk 2 dc, 5-dc shell in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in 3rd dc of shell. Repeat across. Join. (120, 144, 156 sts)Repeat fan lace rounds 2 and 3 alternately for 2 more rounds total (4 fan lace rounds total for Tier 1).(2)
  4. Round 6Scallop edging round (Tier 1 hem): Sl st to first st, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sl st in next st. Repeat across. Join. Fasten off.(2)

Checkpoint: Tier 1 should measure approximately 3 in / 7.5 cm from the ribbon channel to the scallop hem edge.

Skirt Tier 2

  1. Round 1Tier 2 is worked by picking up stitches into the sc stitches in Fan Lace Round 1 of Tier 1 (the valley sc between the shells). This creates the layered waterfall effect.
  2. Round 2Rnd A: With RS facing and F-5 hook, join yarn to the sc between the first two shells of Tier 1 Fan Lace Round 1. Ch 1, sc in same place, ch 3, sc in next sc-between-shell. Repeat around for all 20 (24, 26) sc positions. Join. (20, 24, 26 sc + 20, 24, 26 ch-3 sps)(26)
  3. Round 3Rnd B (increase round): Ch 3, 5 dc into first ch-3 sp (6 dc counting the ch-3), 6 dc into each remaining ch-3 sp around. Join. (120, 144, 156 dc)Fan lace rounds for Tier 2: Work fan lace rounds 1 through 3 exactly as written for Tier 1, then repeat rounds 2 and 3 for 3 more rounds. Tier 2 has 6 total fan lace rounds.Scallop edging round (Tier 2 hem): Work same scallop edging as Tier 1. Fasten off.Checkpoint: Tier 2 should measure approximately 4.5 in / 11.5 cm from its pickup row to its scallop hem.(156)

Collar Attachment

Place the completed collar around the neckline of the bodice with RS facing out and the inner picot edge aligned with the top of the bodice Rnd 1. The collar should curve naturally with the rounded outer edge facing away from the neck.

Using a yarn needle and the long tail, whip stitch or mattress stitch the inner edge of the collar to the top of the bodice. Distribute evenly.

Fold the collar outward so the scallop edge lays flat against the bodice front and sides, leaving the center back open for the closure gap.

Sew the small bow onto the center front of the collar where the two collar halves meet.

Back Closure

Work a sc edging along each back opening edge. Sew two snaps or two small buttons and corresponding loops to close the opening.

Button loop (if using buttons): On the left back opening edge, after sc edging, ch 5 at each button position, sl st to form a loop. Sew corresponding button to right back opening edge.

Ribbon Waistband

Cut the satin ribbon into one length of approximately 44 in / 112 cm.

Thread the ribbon through the front loops exposed in the ribbon channel round using a blunt tapestry needle or bodkin. Start at center back, thread all the way around, bring both ends out at center front, and tie into a neat bow.

Trim ribbon ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent fraying, or use a lighter flame briefly to seal synthetic ribbon ends.

Putting it together

Step 1

Weave in all yarn ends securely using a tapestry needle. Ensure all tier pickup joins are neat on the wrong side.

Step 2

Wet block the dress: Submerge in cool water with a few drops of gentle wool wash. Gently squeeze out water without wringing. Roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture.

Step 3

Pin the dress to a blocking board: Pin the collar flat with the scallop edge spread evenly, pin the bodice to the correct chest and length measurements, and spread each skirt tier so the fan shells open fully and the scallop hems lie flat. The front hem should curve up naturally relative to the back hem.

Step 4

Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours) before unpinning.

Step 5

After blocking, rethread the ribbon if needed and retie the bow.

Marlene's notes

Note 01

Keep your stitch markers in through the Bodice Neckline Setup rounds; losing track of the underarm and center-back points makes the later tier joins much harder to line up.

Note 02

The back of Tier 3 is worked flat, turning at the side-seam markers, while the front stays in the all-around rounds -- double-check which side you're on before you turn your work.

Before you sit down

  • Count your yarn against the size you're making -- 5 (5, 6) balls of Paintbox Cotton DK, 3 (4, 4) skeins of Cascade Ultra Pima, or 4 (4, 5) balls of Drops Safran, depending which option you pick.
  • Set out at least 6 stitch markers before you cast on; you'll place them at the underarm and center-back points in the Bodice Neckline Setup round and need them again through the tiers.
  • Swatch in hdc with your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and check it against 18 hdc by 14 rounds over 4 inches before you commit to the full chain of 76 (82, 88).
  • Read through the Skirt Tier 3 back-only rows once before you get there -- turning the work and working flat on just the back 60 (72, 78) stitches is the trickiest shift in the whole pattern.

How the hours go

Collar and Bodice
about 4-5 hours because the collar's five rows of back-loop increases and the bodice's hdc rounds both need careful stitch placement for the neckline
Skirt Tiers 1 through 3
about 10-12 hours because each tier builds fan shells on top of the last, and Tier 3's back-only extension rows add real time beyond the all-around rounds
Finishing and ribbon work
about 3-4 hours because blocking the collar's scallop edge, threading the satin waistband ribbon, and attaching snaps all take a slower, careful pace

Looking after it

  • Hand wash in cool water with a few drops of gentle wool wash, since this dress is worked in 100 percent cotton or cotton-blend DK yarn that holds its shape best without a washing machine's agitation.
  • Lay flat to dry and reshape the collar's scallop edge and the fan lace tiers with your fingers while damp; store the dress flat or gently folded rather than hung, so the ribbon waistband and tiered hem keep their drape.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Is this dress really for intermediate crocheters or should I wait?

If you're comfortable reading a pattern carefully, using stitch markers, and working into the back loop only, you have the skills to get through this one. The parts that push it toward advanced are the multi-tier fan lace stitch counts and the back-only rows that build the high-low hem.

What yarn weight does this call for?

You want a light DK or light-DK weight yarn, ideally 100 percent mercerized cotton or a blend that's at least half cotton, totaling 600 (680, 760) yards depending on size. Avoid anything with a halo like mohair, since it will blur the fan lace detail.

Why does the pattern use two different hook sizes?

The E-4 / 3.5 mm keeps the bodice and collar firm and well-shaped, while the F-5 / 3.75 mm loosens the gauge just enough for the skirt's fan lace tiers to drape instead of sitting stiff. Swapping hooks partway through is intentional, not a typo.

How does the high-low hem actually work?

Skirt Tier 3, you work four all-around rounds first, then turn the piece and work four more rows on just the back 60 (72, 78) stitches, turning at the side-seam markers each time. That back-only extension is what makes the back hang lower than the front.

Do I need the satin ribbon and snaps, or can I skip them?

The 1.5 yards of 3/8-inch satin ribbon threads through the waistband and the two snaps close the back opening, so both are functional rather than purely decorative. You could substitute a different ribbon width or swap snaps for small buttons if that's what you have on hand.

How long should I really budget for this project?

Plan on 18 to 24 hours of stitching for an experienced crocheter, spread across the collar, bodice, and three skirt tiers. Add extra time beyond that for wet blocking, pinning the fan shells flat, and threading the ribbon, since those finishing steps are what make the dress look polished rather than homemade.