Garments Intermediate 30-45 hours Worsted yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Dusty rose tiered crochet dress with bobble texture

A romantic tiered crochet dress for intermediate makers, about 30 to 45 hours from bodice cups to the scalloped hem.

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

This is the dress you make for the night you want to feel like the best version of yourself — a dinner where you want to walk in and have the room notice, a date where you want your hands to have made something that pretty. It is for the crocheter who has already made a sweater or two and is ready to shape something close to the body, with a V-neck and a skirt that moves when you do.

Your hands will do a lot over these 30 to 45 hours. You shape two bodice cups flat, join them, then settle into the quiet rhythm of working the torso in continuous rounds. After that it is tiers — mesh, bobble, scallop, repeat — until the skirt cascades the way you pictured it. None of it is hard once you have found the pattern in your fingers.

Try it another way

There is something deeply satisfying about watching a flat piece of fabric become a fitted bodice — those bodice cups, worked row by row with increases and decreases, look like nothing until you join them and suddenly see the shape of a garment. Then come the tiers, where the real texture lives: open mesh rows give the eye somewhere to rest, bobble stitches pop forward in neat clusters, and the scalloped edging finishes each hem like a hand-finished hem on a dress you'd pay real money for. Working the same four-round sequence across three tiers means your hands learn it fast, and by Tier Three you are moving without looking at the pattern. That is the real reward — a handmade dress that reads as polished, not homespun.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate30-45 hours3.50 mmWorsted

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

Yarn

  • 1,000 to 1,200 yards (915 to 1,097 meters) of worsted weight (4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in dusty rose

Recommended yarns

  • Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Rose, 6 balls (excellent stitch definition for bobble texture)
  • Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Dusty Rose (adjust hook to E-4/3.50mm)
  • WeCrochet Cotlin in Blush (gives beautiful drape)

Hook

  • US size G-6 / 4.00 mm

Notions

  • 6 stitch markers
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Rust-proof pins for blocking

Optional

  • 1 yard of 1/4 inch wide ribbon for underbust tie accent
  • Yarn substitution tip: Choose a smooth, tightly twisted cotton or cotton-blend. Avoid fuzzy or hairy fibers, which will hide your beautiful bobble and mesh texture.

Right Bodice Cup

Foundation: Ch 17.

  1. Round 1(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (16 sc)
  2. Round 2(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  3. Round 3(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts (V-neck inner edge decrease). Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  4. Round 4(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 3 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  5. Round 5(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  6. Round 6(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 3 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  7. Round 7(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  8. Round 8(WS): Ch 1. Sc across all sts. Turn. (18 sc)
  9. Round 9(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc to end. Turn. (17 sc)
  10. Round 10(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc to end. Turn. (16 sc)
  11. Round 11(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc to end. Turn. (15 sc)
  12. Round 12(RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc to end. Turn. (14 sc) Fasten off. The V-neck inner edge is the diagonal edge created by the decreases.

Left Bodice Cup

Foundation: Ch 17.

  1. Round 1(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (16 sc)
  2. Round 2(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  3. Round 3(RS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 3 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  4. Round 4(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sc2tog. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  5. Round 5(RS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 3 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  6. Round 6(WS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Sc2tog. Sc across to last 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  7. Round 7(RS): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Inc in next st. Sc across to last 3 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in last st. Turn. (18 sc)
  8. Round 8(WS): Ch 1. Sc across all sts. Turn. (18 sc)
  9. Round 9(RS): Ch 1. Sc across to last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (17 sc)
  10. Round 10(RS): Ch 1. Sc across to last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
  11. Round 11(RS): Ch 1. Sc across to last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (15 sc)
  12. Round 12(RS): Ch 1. Sc across to last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc) Do not fasten off. You will use this working yarn to join the cups.

Bodice Torso in the Round

Setup Rnd: Starting at center front V-point (sl st join), work as follows: Sc across the lower edge of right cup foundation chain: 16 sc

Sc 4 sts across right underarm (work into row ends): 4 sc Sc across left cup foundation chain: 16 sc Sc 4 sts across left underarm: 4 sc

Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn. (40 sc)

Place markers at each of the 2 underarm points.

  1. Round 1Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (40 sc)
  2. Round 2Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (40 sc)
  3. Round 3(WS bobble rnd, turn work so WS faces you): Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (20 bo, 20 sc = 40 sts)Turn back to RS facing.
  4. Round 4Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (40 sc)
  5. Round 5Mesh rnd Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1). Skip 1 st. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st) 19 times. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (20 dc, 20 ch-1 sp)
  6. Round 6Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-sp around. Join. (40 sc)
  7. Round 7Ch 1. Sc around, working 4 evenly spaced increases. Join. (44 sc)
  8. Round 8Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (44 sc)
  9. Round 9WS bobble rnd Turn. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (22 bo, 22 sc = 44 sts)Turn back to RS.
  10. Round 10Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (44 sc)
  11. Round 11Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 21 times. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (22 dc, 22 ch-1 sp)
  12. Round 12Ch 1. Sc in each dc and ch-sp around. Join. (44 sc)
  13. Round 13Ch 1. Sc around, working 4 evenly spaced increases as before. Join. (48 sc)
  14. Round 14Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc) Checkpoint: The bodice should measure approximately 6 inches from the top of the cups to the current working round.

Waist Band

These 4 rounds create a slightly tighter waist definition.

  1. Round 15Ch 1. Working in bl only, sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)
  2. Round 16Ch 1. Working in bl only, sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)
  3. Round 17Ch 1. Sc in each st around (both loops). Join. (48 sc)
  4. Round 18Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)

Hip Yoke

The hip yoke transitions from waist to skirt tiers, expanding from 48 sts to 72 sts.

  1. Round 19Ch 1. Sc around, inc 4 evenly spaced. Join. (52 sc)
  2. Round 20Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (52 sc)
  3. Round 21Ch 1. Sc around, inc 4 evenly spaced. Join. (56 sc)
  4. Round 22Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (56 sc)
  5. Round 23Ch 1. Sc around, inc 4 evenly spaced. Join. (60 sc)
  6. Round 24Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (60 sc)
  7. Round 25Ch 1. Sc around, inc 6 evenly spaced. Join. (66 sc)
  8. Round 26Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (66 sc)
  9. Round 27Ch 1. Sc around, inc 6 evenly spaced. Join. (72 sc)
  10. Round 28Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)
  11. Round 29Bobble trim ridge Turn work WS facing. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (36 bo, 36 sc = 72 sts)Turn RS facing.
  12. Round 30Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)

Join Cups

With RS facing and working yarn attached at end of left cup Row 12, ch 2 (this creates a small chain bridge at center front bottom of V-neck). Join with sl st to the first stitch of Row 12 on right cup. (28 sts across both cups plus 2 ch bridge = 30 working positions)

Tier One

Tier One Rnd 1 (ruffle foundation): Ch 1. Inc in every st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 3 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 71 times. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (72 dc, 72 ch-1 sp)

Tier One Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-sp around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 5 (WS bobble): Turn WS facing. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (72 bo, 72 sc = 144 sts)

Turn RS facing.

Tier One Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 7: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 8 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 71 times. Join. (72 dc, 72 ch-1 sp)

Tier One Rnd 9: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-sp around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 10 (WS bobble): Turn WS facing. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (72 bo, 72 sc = 144 sts)

Turn RS facing.

Tier One Rnd 11: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 12: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier One Rnd 13 (scallop edging): Ch 1. Sl st in first st. (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st) 24 times. Join. (24 scallop shells)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Tier Two

Attach yarn with sl st in any back loop of Rnd 30.

Tier Two Rnd 1 (ruffle foundation): Ch 1. Working in bl of each st of Rnd 30, inc in every st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 3: Ch 1. Sc around, inc 1 in every 12th st (12 increases total). Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 4 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 77 times. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (78 dc, 78 ch-1 sp)

Tier Two Rnd 5: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-sp around. Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 6 (WS bobble): Turn WS facing. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (78 bo, 78 sc = 156 sts)

Turn RS facing.

Tier Two Rnd 7: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 8: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 9 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 77 times. Join. (78 dc, 78 ch-1 sp)

Tier Two Rnd 10: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-sp around. Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 11 (WS bobble): Turn WS. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (78 bo, 78 sc = 156 sts)

Turn RS.

Tier Two Rnd 12: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (156 sc)

Tier Two Rnd 13 (scallop edging): Ch 1. Sl st in first st. (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st) 26 times. Join. (26 scallop shells)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Tier Three

Attach yarn with sl st in any back loop of Rnd 27.

Tier Three Rnd 1 (ruffle foundation): Ch 1. Working in bl of each st of Rnd 27, inc in every st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (144 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 3: Ch 1. Sc around, inc 1 in every 8th st (18 increases total). Join. (162 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc around, inc 1 in every 9th st (18 increases total). Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 5 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 89 times. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (90 dc, 90 ch-1 sp)

Tier Three Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and ch-sp around. Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 7 (WS bobble): Turn WS. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (90 bo, 90 sc = 180 sts)

Turn RS.

Tier Three Rnd 8: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 9: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 10 (mesh): Ch 4. Skip 1. (Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1) 89 times. Join. (90 dc, 90 ch-1 sp)

Tier Three Rnd 11: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and ch-sp around. Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 12 (WS bobble): Turn WS. Ch 1. (Bo in next st, sc in next st) around. Join. (90 bo, 90 sc = 180 sts)

Turn RS.

Tier Three Rnd 13: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Tier Three Rnd 14 (scallop edging): Ch 1. Sl st in first st. (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st) 30 times. Join. (30 scallop shells)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps (Make 4 Cords Total)

Each strap consists of 2 cords positioned side by side for the double spaghetti strap look.

Strap Cord: Ch 50 (adjust for desired strap length).

Sl st back into each ch all the way to the beginning. (50 sl sts)

Fasten off leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Strap Placement:

Position 2 cords side by side on each shoulder, spacing them approximately 0.5 inch apart. Attach front ends to the top edge of the bodice cups, approximately 1.5 inches from center V-point. Attach back ends to the straight upper back edge at matching positions. Use yarn needle and the long tails to sew cords securely through multiple stitches. Knot securely on WS. Weave in all ends.

Back Bodice Edging

With RS facing, attach yarn at top right back corner.

Back Edging Rnd: Ch 1. Sc evenly across entire top back edge. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Putting it together

Step 1

Block your finished dress by pinning it to shape on a blocking mat. Spray lightly with water and allow to dry completely. This helps the scalloped edges lay flat and evens out any tension variations in your stitches.

Step 2

This dress has no zipper or closure. The cotton fabric has enough natural stretch for you to step into it. If you prefer additional security at the waist, you can crochet small button loops at center back and sew on hooks.

Marlene's notes

Note 01

Use a smooth, tightly twisted cotton or cotton-blend yarn rather than anything fuzzy, since the bobble and mesh texture only shows up clearly on crisp stitch definition.

Note 02

wrong side rows, push each bobble toward you as you work it so it pops through to the right side of the fabric instead of sitting flat.

Before you sit down

  • Swatch both stitch patterns before casting on — single crochet gauge (16 sc = 4 inches) and bobble/mesh gauge (16 stitches, 8 rows = 4 inches) behave differently and both need to match for the dress to fit.
  • Lay out your 1,000 to 1,200 yards of worsted cotton and confirm you have enough across however many balls you are working from, since running short mid-tier means an awkward join.
  • Place your 6 stitch markers within reach before you start the torso, since the underarm points on the Bodice Torso in the Round need marking as soon as the setup round closes.
  • Read through the Right and Left Bodice Cup rows side by side first, since they mirror each other and it is easy to work two Right cups by accident.

How the hours go

Bodice cups and join
about 5 to 7 hours because each cup is 12 rows of careful increase and decrease shaping, worked twice and then seamed
Bodice torso, waist band, and hip yoke
about 8 to 10 hours because the torso alone runs 14 rounds in continuous single crochet before the waist band and hip yoke add their own rounds
Three skirt tiers and finishing
about 15 to 20 hours because each tier repeats the mesh, bobble, and scallop sequence independently before you attach it and add the straps and back edging

Looking after it

  • Hand wash the finished dress in cool water with a gentle detergent, since cotton and cotton-blend fibers hold their shape best without the agitation of a machine cycle.
  • Lay it flat to dry on a towel, reshaping the tiers and scalloped edges by hand as it dries, then store it folded rather than hung so the weight of the skirt does not stretch the bodice over time.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Can I make this dress in a different size?

The pattern is written for one size, Small/Medium, with a 32 to 34 inch bust and 28 to 30 inch underbust. You would need to adjust stitch and round counts yourself for a different size, so swatching and comparing your gauge to the pattern's 16 sc = 4 inches is essential before you commit.

What yarn works best for the bobble texture to really show?

A smooth, tightly twisted cotton or cotton-blend like 24/7 Cotton gives the cleanest stitch definition. Avoid anything fuzzy or hairy, since it will blur the bobble and mesh pattern you worked so hard on.

Do I need a zipper or other closure?

No, the dress has no zipper or closure and relies on the natural stretch of the cotton fabric so you can step into it. If you want extra security at the waist, you can crochet small button loops at center back and sew on hooks.

Why do I need 6 stitch markers?

You place markers at the underarm points when you join the bodice cups into the torso, and additional markers help you track round changes through the tiers. Having all 6 ready before you start the torso keeps you from pausing mid-round to search for one.

How long will this dress actually take me?

Plan for 30 to 45 hours total, split across bodice shaping, the torso and yoke, and the three skirt tiers. It is a slow, rewarding project rather than a weekend make.

What is the trick to a neat bobble stitch?

Work five half-closed double crochets into the same stitch, then pull through all 6 loops at once and chain 1 to close. On wrong side rows, push the bobble toward you as you work it so it still pops to the right side of the fabric.