Intermediate 4-6 hours Worsted yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Crochet moose antlers for a lovey, point by point

Easy crochet antlers for a moose lovey, shaped with chains and half double crochet points. About 4-6 hours, good for confident

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

You know the kind of project you reach for when you want to make something with real shape to it, not just another round-and-round sphere. These antlers are for that mood: a small, branching piece that stands in for the whole character of a moose before the rest of the lovey even comes together. Make them for a baby gift, for a nursery shelf, or just because you've been wanting to try shaping points instead of counting endless single crochets.

Your hands spend most of this project doing two different things: building a flat strip, then turning that strip into branches with chains and half double crochets, one point at a time. It's a good project for an evening when you want to sit with something and actually watch it take shape in your lap. Between the two antlers, plan on a few hours of focused stitching, with the point-shaping rows asking for a little more attention than the rest.

Try it another way

Once you've made one antler, the second comes together faster, so this is a good spot to experiment on your next pair. Try working both antlers in the same cotton you'll use for the moose head so the whole lovey reads as one piece, or pick a contrasting shade for the antlers so they stand out against the head once you attach them. If you want a smaller or larger finished antler, you can adjust your hook size slightly up or down from the 3.25 mm called for here, which will change the scale of the 10 sc base strip without changing the stitch count. Since the points are built from chains of increasing length, you could also shorten or lengthen every point by the same amount to make a more compact rack or a dramatically branching one, as long as you keep the progression consistent across all four points per side. If you're making this as a standalone decoration rather than part of the full lovey, skip the long tail at the start and instead add a small hanging loop when you finish Row 8, so you can display the antlers on their own before the rest of the project is done.

What makes this one satisfying is the shift from plain rows to real shaping. You spend three rows building a simple 10-stitch strip, and then suddenly you're slip stitching into place, chaining out a point, working half double crochet back down it, and anchoring it to the stem with a single crochet. Doing that four times per antler, each point a little longer than the last, teaches your hands a rhythm you can feel building. Mirroring the points on the second side so the antler reads as symmetrical is its own small puzzle worth solving. And because you leave a long tail at the start, the finishing feels built in rather than tacked on at the end.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate4-6 hours3.25 mmWorsted

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

  • Cotton yarn (100% mercerized cotton recommended for less pilling and fraying)
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Antler

Make 2

Leave a long tail at the start for sewing the antlers to the moose head later.

  1. Round 1Chain 11; Single crochet in the second chain from the hook; Single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 10 single crochets (10 sc); Chain 1 and turn.
  2. Rounds 2–3Single crochet in each of the 10 stitches across (10 sc); Chain 1 and turn after each row.
  3. Round 4Creating the First Point Slip stitch in the first 2 single crochets; Single crochet in the next stitch; Chain 4; Half double crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain back to the base; Join with a single crochet to the base; Chain 5.
  4. Rounds 5–7Second, Third, and Fourth Points Repeat the process of creating points, increasing the chain length by one for each new point to make them progressively longer; After completing each point, secure it back to the main stem of the antler with a single crochet.
  5. Round 8Finishing the Antler After completing the points on one side, single crochet in the remaining stitches; Create points on the other side of the antler, mirroring the points made on the first side but in reverse order, starting from the longest to the shortest.
  6. Round 9Securing the Work Work halfway across the bottom with slip stitches; Chain 1; Fold the work in half; Single crochet up the back of the antler for stability; Cut the yarn and pull through; Sew in the tail along the ridge created by the back single crochets for extra stability.

Sewing the tail along the back ridge also helps prevent the antler from flopping down.

The antlers might curl a bit; this is normal and can be fixed by straightening them out manually, using fabric stiffener, or ironing them (if your yarn allows).

Putting it together

Step 1

Use the long tail left at the beginning for sewing the antlers to the moose's head.

Step 2

Sew securely to ensure the antlers stand upright.

Marlene's notes

Note 01

The pattern calls for only 6 rounds per antler, but rows 4 through 7 pack in all four points, so go slowly there rather than rushing the count.

Note 02

Mercerized cotton holds its shape better than many other fibers, but the antlers can still curl a bit after shaping; straightening by hand, a fabric stiffener, or careful ironing all work if your yarn allows it.

Note 03

Leave the long starting tail uncut. You'll use it both to sew the antler to the moose's head and to tack the back ridge down so the antler stands up instead of folding over.

Note 04

The pattern for "Levy the Moose lovey" is available in the creator's Etsy shop.

Note 05

This project is marked as the most complex part of the lovey. Take your time, and don't hesitate to review the steps as needed.

Porch photos

Before you sit down

  • Have enough mercerized cotton on hand for two antlers plus a long tail at the start of each one for sewing later.
  • Check that your 3.25 mm hook gives you a firm enough fabric that the half double crochet points hold their shape rather than flopping.
  • Read through Row 4 before you begin so the slip stitch, chain, and anchoring sequence makes sense the first time you meet it.
  • Keep a stitch marker handy for the base chain of 11 and the first row, since losing track there throws off the 10 sc count for every row after.

How the hours go

Base strip (Rows 1-3)
about 15-20 minutes because it is a straightforward 10 sc strip with no shaping yet
First side points (Rows 4-7)
about 1-1.5 hours because each of the four points has its own chain length and anchoring single crochet
Second side and finishing (Row 8, times two antlers)
about 1.5-2 hours total because you mirror the points in reverse order and repeat the whole antler a second time

Looking after it

  • Hand wash the finished antlers in cool water with a mild soap, since mercerized cotton holds up well to gentle washing but can lose its sheen with harsh detergents or hot water.
  • Lay flat to dry and reshape the points by hand while damp; store the antlers flat or loosely stuffed with tissue so they don't develop new creases before you attach them to the moose head.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Why does my base strip not have 10 single crochets after Row 1?

Check that you chained 11 and worked your first single crochet into the second chain from the hook, not the first. Miscounting there is the most common reason the strip comes up short or long.

Do I need to stuff the antlers?

The pattern doesn't call for stuffing since the antlers are a flat, shaped applique rather than a 3D form. The shape comes entirely from the chains and half double crochet points.

How do I keep the four points on each side consistent?

Follow the chain-length progression exactly as written, since each point is meant to be a little longer than the last. Using a stitch marker to flag where one point ends and the next begins can help you keep track as you go.

My antlers keep curling. Is that normal?

Yes, this is common with this shape and is mentioned directly in the pattern notes. Straightening by hand, light steam from an iron if your yarn allows it, or a fabric stiffener will all flatten them out.

Can I make just one antler if I only need a sample?

You can, though the pattern is written for a pair since moose have two antlers. Working just one is a fine way to practice the point-shaping in Rows 4 through 8 before committing to both.

Is this a good first amigurumi project?

It's better suited to someone who has worked a few amigurumi pieces already, since the point shaping in Rows 4 through 7 asks for more attention than basic single crochet rounds. If you're new to the craft, it's still doable, just budget extra time for those rows.