Bags Intermediate 4-6 hours T-shirt yarn yarn

Worked on the glider, counted out loud —

Round Black Crochet Evening Bag With Herringbone Flap

A structured waistcoat-stitch evening bag for date nights out. About 4-6 hours for confident crocheters.

Jump to the rounds

What this one is

You know the kind of evening this is for - the one where you want a bag small enough to just hold your phone, your cash, and maybe a lipstick, but sturdy enough to swing confidently from your shoulder. This round black bag has that structured, almost-leather look that dresses up a plain outfit without trying too hard. It suits anyone who likes their accessories to do a little quiet showing off.

Your hands spend most of their time here on repetition that actually pays off: a magic ring base that grows round by round, then the shift into waistcoat stitch for the sides, which looks far more complicated than it feels once your fingers find the rhythm. Between the base, the sides, the herringbone flap, and finishing touches like the tassel and hardware, you are looking at roughly four to six hours of actual stitching time.

The rounds, in full

Written out, round by round

Intermediate4-6 hours5 mmT-shirt yarn

Bring to the porch

Everything this one takes, in the order you will reach for it.

Yarn

  • Approximately 200 grams (2 skeins) of t-shirt yarn in black
  • Recommended brands include Hoooked Zpagetti, Yarn Art Maccheroni, or any quality jersey yarn
  • You could substitute with macrame cord (5mm) for a slightly different texture

Hook

  • 8.0mm or 9.0mm crochet hook (experiment to achieve a tight, structured fabric)
  • A larger hook will create a looser drape; go smaller if your stitches seem too open

Hardware

  • 1 push lock clasp (also called press lock or tuck lock), gold finish
  • 1 chain strap, approximately 100-120cm, gold finish
  • 2 D-rings or O-rings, 20mm, gold finish
  • 2 lobster claw clasps, gold finish
  • 1 swivel hook for tassel attachment

Tools

  • Stitch marker
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Small screwdriver (for attaching push lock)

Optional

  • Fabric lining (cotton or satin)
  • Round plastic canvas or cardboard for base stiffening

Part 1: The Circular Base

We start with a magic ring. If magic rings intimidate you, feel free to chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring instead.

  1. Round 1Make a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch throughout). Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
  2. Round 2Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (12 sts)
  3. Round 3Ch 1. *1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (18 sts)
  4. Round 4Ch 1. *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (24 sts)
  5. Round 5Ch 1. *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (30 sts)
  6. Round 6Ch 1. *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (36 sts)
  7. Round 7Ch 1. *1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (42 sts)At this point, your circle should lay flat and measure approximately 14-16cm across. If it is cupping or ruffling, adjust your tension or hook size.

Part 6: The Chain Strap Tab (Make 2)

These small tabs connect the chain strap to your bag using D-rings.

  1. Row 1Ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
  2. Rows 2–4Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts) After Row 4, fold the tab in half over a D-ring. Using your tapestry needle, sew the ends together to secure the D-ring inside.Attach one tab to each side of the bag at the point where the sides meet the flap. Sew securely using matching yarn.

Part 2: Building the Sides

Now we stop increasing and begin working in continuous rounds to build the bag walls. This is where we switch to the waistcoat stitch for that beautiful textured look.

  1. Round 8Working in the back loop only (this creates a defined edge at the base), work 1 sc in each st around. Do not join. Place stitch marker in first st and move it up each round. (42 sts)
  2. Rounds 9–14Switch to waistcoat stitch. Insert hook into the center V of each stitch below (between the two legs, not under the top loops). Work 1 ws in each st around. Continue moving your stitch marker. (42 sts each round)(42)

After Round 14, your bag sides should measure approximately 6cm tall. Work additional rounds if you prefer a deeper bag.

Tip: The waistcoat stitch can feel awkward at first. Take your time finding that center V. After a few stitches, it becomes second nature.

Part 3: Creating the Flap Opening

We need to create the opening and begin shaping the flap. This section requires some counting, so use stitch markers liberally.

  1. Round 15Work 21 ws (halfway around the bag). Ch 1, turn your work.(21)
  2. Row 16Skip first st. Work 1 ws in each of the next 20 sts. Ch 1, turn. (20 sts)

This creates the back portion of the bag. The front half remains open for the flap to cover.

Part 4: The Herringbone Flap

Now we work rows back and forth to create the decorative flap. The herringbone stitch gives this section its distinctive braided appearance.

  1. Row 17Work 1 hhdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (20 sts)
  2. Row 18Skip first st. Work 1 hhdc in each st to last st. Skip last st. Ch 1, turn. (18 sts)
  3. Row 19Work 1 hhdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (18 sts)
  4. Row 20Skip first st. Work 1 hhdc in each st to last st. Skip last st. Ch 1, turn. (16 sts)
  5. Row 21Work 1 hhdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (16 sts)
  6. Row 22Skip first st. Work 1 hhdc in each st to last st. Skip last st. Ch 1, turn. (14 sts)
  7. Row 23Work 1 hhdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (14 sts)
  8. Row 24Skip first st. Work 1 hhdc in each st to last st. Skip last st. (12 sts) Fasten off and weave in ends.(12)

Part 5: Flap Edging

To create a polished edge around the flap:

Join yarn at the corner where the flap meets the bag body. Work sl st evenly along the side of the flap, across the bottom curved edge, and up the other side. This creates a neat border and prevents stretching.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 7: The Tassel

Cut 15-20 strips of t-shirt yarn, each approximately 25cm long. Fold them in half. Take a small piece of yarn and wrap it tightly around the folded bundle, about 2cm from the top, creating the tassel head. Secure with a knot.

Attach a lobster claw clasp to the top loop of the tassel. This allows you to clip it onto one of the D-rings.

Part 8: Hardware Installation

Push Lock Clasp:

Position the push lock on the front center of the bag body, approximately 2cm below where the flap will rest. Use a small screwdriver to attach the back plate through the crochet fabric. Most push locks come with washers and screws.

Attach the corresponding latch portion to the flap, ensuring it aligns perfectly with the lock below. Test the closure several times before fully tightening.

Chain Strap:

Clip the chain strap to both D-rings using the attached lobster claws (most pre-made chain straps include these). If your chain does not have clips, use additional jump rings and lobster claws.

Part 9: Optional Lining

For a truly professional finish, consider adding a fabric lining. Cut a circle of fabric slightly smaller than your bag base. Cut a rectangle to line the sides. Hand sew these pieces together, then whip stitch the lining to the inside of your bag along the top edge.

A lining protects the inside of your bag, hides any visible stitching, and prevents small items from poking through the crochet fabric.

Marlene's notes

Note 01

T-shirt yarn varies in thickness along its length, so if you spot a noticeably thin stretch, feed it in near the base rounds where any unevenness will be least visible.

Note 02

Keep your tension firm and consistent through the side rounds in particular - t-shirt yarn has give, and a floppy result almost always means it is time to try a smaller hook.

Note 03

Waistcoat stitch hides the tops of your stitches below a dense ridge, which makes miscounts easy to miss - count out loud and often, and let your stitch markers do the remembering for you.

Note 04

t-shirt yarn and an 8.0mm hook: 8 waistcoat stitches = approximately 10cm (4 inches); 8 rows = approximately 10cm (4 inches). Your gauge may vary based on your tension and specific yarn. The finished bag measures approximately 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and 6cm (2.5 inches) deep. Adjust your hook size if your circle is significantly larger or smaller after completing the base.

Porch photos

Round Black Crochet Evening Bag With Herringbone Flap — photo 2
Round Black Crochet Evening Bag With Herringbone Flap — photo 4
Round Black Crochet Evening Bag With Herringbone Flap — photo 2

Before you sit down

  • Check that you have close to 200 grams of t-shirt yarn on hand - running short partway through the sides is a frustrating stop.
  • Set aside more than one stitch marker; waistcoat stitch gets confusing to count without a marker tracking your round start and another floating to help you recheck.
  • Work a small test swatch with your 8.0mm or 9.0mm hook first to see whether your fabric feels tight and structured or too open - size down if it is loose.

How the hours go

The Circular Base
about 30-40 minutes because seven rounds of increases means a lot of counting as the stitch total climbs
Building the Sides
about 1.5-2 hours because six rounds of waistcoat stitch worked into the center V of each stitch takes longer to find a rhythm in than plain single crochet
Flap, Edging, Tassel, and Hardware
about 2-2.5 hours because the herringbone flap, edging, tassel assembly, and installing rings and clasps are all fiddly finishing stages rather than quick repeats

Looking after it

  • T-shirt yarn is essentially cotton jersey, so hand wash gently in cool water if it ever needs cleaning, and reshape the round base while damp over your plastic canvas or cardboard insert so it dries flat and even.
  • Store the bag stuffed lightly with tissue or a soft cloth to help it hold its round shape, and keep it away from direct heat sources since t-shirt yarn can stretch out of shape if left under tension for long periods.
FAQs

Asked on the glider

the ones that come up on the glider

Can I make this bag without feeling confident with waistcoat stitch?

Yes, but practice finding the center V on a swatch before you commit to the six rounds of sides. Once you catch the rhythm it goes quickly, and the stitch marker moving with you each round keeps you from losing your place.

How much yarn do I actually need?

Plan on roughly 200 grams, or two skeins, of t-shirt yarn in black. That amount covers the base, sides, flap, tabs, and tassel with little waste.

What hook size should I use if my fabric feels too loose?

Start with an 8.0mm or 9.0mm hook and go a size smaller if your stitches look open rather than tight and structured. A smaller hook also helps counter the natural stretch of t-shirt yarn.

Why does my bag feel floppy after the side rounds?

This usually means your tension has relaxed, which t-shirt yarn makes easy to do. Tighten your tension through the waistcoat stitch rounds and consider sizing down your hook.

Do I need a lining inside the bag?

The lining is listed as optional in the materials, so it is entirely up to you. If you do add one, cotton or satin fabric sewn in after the shell is finished gives the inside a tidier look.

Can I substitute a different cord for the t-shirt yarn?

Yes, 5mm macrame cord is a suggested substitute and will give you a slightly firmer, less squishy texture. Keep your hook size experimentation in mind either way, since the goal is a tight, structured fabric regardless of fiber.