💡Note 01
The pattern calls for a US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, but treat that as a starting point and adjust until your swatch matches the fan-shell gauge of 1.5 inches per repeat.
💡Note 02
Use your stitch markers to hold the magic ring steady on Round 1 of each daisy and leaf, and to flag the point on the Back Bodice Panel where the two straps begin.
💡Note 03
Fasten off CC after Round 2 of each daisy and AC after Round 3, leaving tails rather than weaving them in right away—you'll need those tails to sew the yellow centers onto the petals later.
💡Note 04
Fan shell gauge: One full fan shell repeat (1 single crochet + chain 1 + 5 double crochet fan + chain 1) = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm wide. Six rows of fan shell pattern = 3 inches / 7.6 cm tall.
💡Note 05
Alternate gauge check: 18 stitches x 10 rows in single crochet = 4 inches x 4 inches / 10 cm x 10 cm.
💡Note 06
Work a swatch of at least 20 stitches and 12 rows before starting. If your swatch is too small, go up a hook size. If it is too large, go down a hook size.
💡Note 07
Substitution tip: Any DK weight yarn that achieves the stated gauge will work. For baby items, choose machine washable yarns that are soft against sensitive skin. Avoid fluffy or textured yarns since the fan shell pattern needs clear stitch visibility.
💡Note 08
Fan Shell Stitch (FS): Work 5 double crochet stitches all into the same stitch or space. This creates one fan or shell unit. When placed over the chain space of the previous row, it fans outward and creates that beautiful petal like texture throughout the dress.
💡Note 09
Scallop Edge Stitch: Worked in CC. Slip stitch into next stitch, chain 3, 2 double crochet in same stitch, slip stitch into next stitch. Repeat across. Each scallop uses 2 stitches of the base edge, creating that rounded ruffle trim along the straps and hem.
💡Note 10
Picot Stitch: Chain 3, slip stitch in first chain of chain 3. Creates a small decorative loop.
💡Note 11
The dress is constructed in this order: back bodice panel, front bodice panel, strap seaming, skirt in the round, hem border, strap borders, daisy appliques.
💡Note 12
Both bodice panels are worked flat from the waist up to the shoulders. They are identical except the back panel has button loops at the top corners.
💡Note 13
The skirt is worked in the round from the joined waist downward.
💡Note 14
Fan shell rows that begin with single crochet use chain 1 as the turning chain. Rows that begin with a fan use chain 3 (counts as first double crochet).
💡Note 15
The fan shell pattern for flat panels uses a multiple of 6 plus 1 stitches. For the skirt in the round, it uses a multiple of 6 stitches.
💡Note 16
Right side of work is the smooth outward facing side. Keep this consistent throughout.
💡Note 17
Leave 6 inch tails when joining new colors and weave them in securely, especially for items that will be washed frequently.
💡Note 18
Finished size: this dress fits babies 6 to 12 months, with a chest circumference of 18 inches and a total length of 14 inches from shoulder strap to hem.
💡Note 19
Skill level: rated intermediate. The fan shell stitch itself is straightforward once you understand the rhythm, but you will need to pay attention to stitch counts to keep the pattern aligned properly. If you have completed at least two garment projects and feel comfortable working gauge swatches, you will do great here, since the construction involves seaming flat panels, picking up stitches in the round, and creating small crocheted appliques.